“This eyelash serum was said to guarantee clear results, so I made up my mind and bought it.”
This is a story about the expensive eyelash serums that have been appearing more and more often on SNS and social media lately. Along with reviews claiming that lashes grow darker and faster, phrases like ‘clear results’ and ‘guaranteed results’ tend to follow.
Today, we will carefully examine whether these products really work, and more importantly, whether there are any safety concerns, together with the full ingredient list.
Key Summary
✔ Some expensive eyelash serums contain isopropyl cloprostenate, a prostaglandin analog.
✔ Ingredients in this class may produce an effect of making eyelashes longer and darker, but adverse reactions such as eyelid irritation, pigment changes, and sunken areas around the eyes have also been reported.
✔ The mere fact that a product is sold as a cosmetic does not mean that its safety for long-term use around the eyes has been sufficiently confirmed.
✔ Check the ingredient list, and if any abnormal symptoms appear, discontinue use immediately.
Why Are They So Expensive — Different Distribution Channels from the Start
A typical eyelash serum usually costs around 20,000 to 30,000 won. However, certain products that have recently drawn attention are quite expensive, at over 100,000 won per bottle. The distribution channels are also somewhat different. Rather than being sold openly online, they are often distributed through offline franchise formats at places such as aesthetics or salons, accompanied by strong statements like ‘clear results’ and ‘guaranteed results.’
The higher the price and the stronger the advertising, the more consumers should, in fact, check the ingredients and evidence more carefully.
Key Ingredients to Check on the Full Ingredient List
When I actually tried to check the full ingredient list of one representative product, the full list of ingredients was not shown on the product's website. Fortunately, since those who import and distribute products from overseas are obligated to indicate the full ingredient list, I was able to confirm the full ingredient list through import-related materials.
The ingredient list was quite long, and the key was the ingredient at the very end. It was isopropyl cloprostenate.
Cosmetic ingredient lists are generally displayed starting from ingredients with the highest content, but the order of ingredients present in small amounts may differ. Therefore, the exact content cannot be judged solely by the fact that it is at the very end of the list. However, since isopropyl cloprostenate may exert pharmacological action even at very low concentrations, it is necessary to pay careful attention to whether the ingredient is included at all.
Prostaglandin Derivatives — A Long-Known Story
Isopropyl cloprostenate belongs to the prostaglandin derivative class. The fact that applying prostaglandin derivatives around the eyes makes eyelashes and eyebrows darker and thicker is not actually a new discovery.
This is because, for a long time, people using glaucoma eye drops have commonly reported that “their eyelashes became darker.” Taking note of this, multinational pharmaceutical company Allergan created Latisse using bimatoprost, a prostaglandin derivative at a lower dose than that used for glaucoma treatment, for the purpose of eyelash lengthening. Latisse is a prescription drug approved by the U.S. FDA, and it was also introduced to Korea in the past.
Side Effects of Latisse and Prostaglandin-Class Ingredients
Latisse, containing bimatoprost, is a prescription drug approved by the U.S. FDA for the treatment of eyelash hypotrichosis. As it is a medication with confirmed effects, adverse reactions to be aware of are also known, such as itching and redness of the eyelid skin and pigment changes. Currently it is generally hard to come by in Korea, but it is difficult to attribute the specific reason for the discontinuation of domestic distribution to a single side effect.
Why They Are Distributed as Cosmetics Rather Than Drugs
Though they are ingredients of the same class, one was a prescription drug, while the other is sold as a cosmetic. The difference is because different laws apply.
- Drugs require oversight and approval from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety for every ingredient included.
- Cosmetics follow what is called negative regulation. This is a system in which an ingredient can be used if it is not on the prohibited list of “ingredients that must not be added.”
Isopropyl cloprostenate is used in some products because it is included in very small amounts and is not currently designated as a prohibited ingredient under cosmetic raw material management standards. However, the fact that a product is sold as a cosmetic does not mean that its safety for long-term use around the eyes has been sufficiently confirmed.
What Side Effects Should You Watch Out For
The most common is irritation at the applied area. Symptoms such as stinging, itching, redness, or swelling may appear. For eyelashes to grow, you have to apply it consistently for about 6 weeks, not just a day or two, and if irritation is repeated during that period, inflammation may persist like contact dermatitis. Persistent inflammation can lead to pigmentation, which may make it feel like “the dark circles have gotten darker.” However, pigmentation due to inflammation often gradually returns to normal once use is discontinued.
A point that requires even more attention is the atrophy of the fat around the eyes with long-term use. As people age, the fat in the eyelids decreases and the lines deepen, and with long-term use, changes such as reduced fat around the eyes and deeper-looking eyelid grooves have been reported in some cases. It is reported that these changes may not fully return even after discontinuing use. This is known to be a characteristic commonly shared by the prostaglandin derivative class, including bimatoprost.
This does not mean the effect is ‘false.’ However, since it is used for cosmetic purposes, I would like to point out that you need to weigh the benefits gained against the side effects you must accept. If you decide to use it, be sure to follow the usage instructions and precautions indicated on the product, and take care not to let it flow into the eye or onto the lower eyelid. If any abnormal symptoms appear, it is advisable to discontinue use immediately and seek medical care.
Frequently Asked Questions
If it is sold as a cosmetic, doesn't that mean its safety has been confirmed?
The fact that a product can be sold as a cosmetic and the fact that its safety for long-term use around the eyes has been sufficiently proven are not the same thing. In particular, prostaglandin analogs may exert pharmacological action even at low concentrations, so you should check the ingredients and the area of application. If symptoms such as eye redness, eyelid irritation, pigment changes, or sunken areas around the eyes appear, it is advisable to discontinue use and seek care from an ophthalmologist or dermatologist.
I developed pigmentation; if I stop using it, will it return to normal?
Skin pigmentation accompanying irritation or inflammation may gradually fade after discontinuing use, but the degree and period of recovery vary from person to person.
For prostaglandin-class ingredients, changes such as reduced fat around the eyes and deeper-looking eyelid grooves have been reported. The frequency of occurrence and the possibility of recovery vary depending on the ingredient, concentration, duration of use, and individual condition, making it difficult to predict precisely.
Still, I want to make my eyelashes darker; is there any way?
If you already have eyebrows and eyelashes, I recommend deciding carefully by considering both irritation and cost. If your concern is a lack of eyebrow density itself, you can compare other options such as eyebrow transplant through a consultation. Since suitability differs depending on an individual's condition regardless of the method, please discuss it thoroughly with a specialist.
Can I use it while pregnant or preparing for pregnancy?
If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or preparing for pregnancy, it is advisable not to use products containing prostaglandin analogs on your own. Please check the product ingredients and consult with an obstetrics or ophthalmology medical professional.
What symptoms indicate that I should discontinue use?
If persistent redness, pain, severe itching or swelling, changes in vision, changes in the skin color around the eyes, or a change in which the eyelid suddenly appears sunken occur, it is advisable to discontinue use and seek ophthalmological care.
If I use an eyelash serum, will things return to their original state when I stop using it?
Eyelashes lengthened by prostaglandin analogs may gradually return to their original state according to the eyelash growth cycle once use is discontinued. However, there is individual variation, and whether side effects recover may differ depending on the symptom.
In Summary
- The ‘effect’ of expensive eyelash serums generally comes from prostaglandin derivatives (isopropyl cloprostenate).
- Latisse, a prescription drug using an ingredient of the same class, is a product approved by the U.S. FDA and is currently generally hard to come by in Korea.
- Current products appear to be distributed in the blind spots of the negative regulation of cosmetics.
- This does not mean there is no effect at all, but you should be aware of the possibility of irritation, pigmentation, and atrophy of the fat around the eyes and judge carefully.
It is easy to be swayed by the phrase ‘clear results,’ but checking both the ingredients and the side effects is ultimately the way to protect yourself.
References
- Prostaglandin-associated periorbitopathy. Indian Journal of Ophthalmology. 2016. View original
- Periorbital changes associated with topical bimatoprost. Ophthalmic Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. 2008. View original
- Periorbital fat atrophy — an unfamiliar side effect of prostaglandin analogues. Orbit. 2010. View original
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This article was reconstructed based on a YouTube video by Director Yoo Hwa-jeong of Modi Hair Plant Clinic. It is intended to provide general medical information and does not replace individual diagnosis or treatment.
This article was uploaded after review by medical staff.